VICTOROVIES.COM
CAKES, COFFEE,
ICE CREAM
TERRACES WITH A VIEW
WALKING TOURS
MUCH MORE TO BE SEEN
BEFORE WE START
Some tips to make the most of the eating out part of this guide:
Granada has more than two thousand restaurants and tapas bars. Exactly one for every 112 inhabitants. Choosing just a handful for this guide is a difficult task and, above all, very subjective. In this list I have put places that I love and offer excellent value for money and that are generally liked by visitors and locals alike. Of course, the distance from the accommodation has played an important role in selecting them. Obviously there are fabulous tapas bars in the outskirts of the city and also in the surrounding towns, but they are not very practical for a visit of only a few days.
Vegan and vegetarian places have their own section. In the other sections, I have added the label VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU for those places that not being fully vegetarian still offer several nice green options to choose from
Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps. The number in front of the name matches the number on my map which you can find at the bottom of this page. My students and guests will also get a printed copy of it.
Opening times: Spanish people do eat late when compared to other countries. If you get to a restaurant o tapas bar when they are opening you will easily find a table even at the most popular places. I would say from 12:30 to 13:00 for lunch and from 20:00 to 20:30 for dinner. Beware, earlier than that you will probably find that most local places are still closed. Some tapas bars remain open all day but most of them do not serve tapas from 16:00 to 20:00 as their kitchen is closed. The price of the drinks will stay the same though with or without tapa. Restaurants and tapas bars usually close at midnight and kitchen closes 30 minutes or one hour before. In Plaza Nueva and Plaza Bib-Rambla, the two most touristic squares in Granada, you will find restaurants open all day where you can have lunch and dinner at any time. Keep in mind that they are extremely touristy places and not cheap at all.
RESTAURANTS
Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
1 Bar
Aixa (Plaza Larga, 4)
In one of the
most charming and historical squares of the Albaicín near
Mirador de San Nicolás. Aixa restaurant is
incredibly popular and the service is very efficient. There
are two or three restaurants here, so close together that
their tables literally touch each other's. Make sure you
sit at a table that belongs to this restaurant and not another ;) My favorite
dish here is their scrambled eggs with potatoes and ham, they are really
delicious. Pisto (a sort of ratatouille)
with fried eggs is also great. Portions at this
restaurant are big, keep that in mind before ordering too
much food.
2
El Ladrillo II (Panaderos, 35)
One of the most
popular places to eat fried fish. A beautiful house with an
Andalusian patio in the Albaicín,
near Mirador de San Nicolas.
3
La Bodega de Antonio I (Calle
Jardines, 4)
An
all time classic. The Galician octopus, the
alabarce potatoes and the homemade
croquettes are among the most requested. To drink, the cerditos de
vino (piggy-shaped frozen clay jugs filled with ribeiro) are part of the local's
history.
4 Morrocan Restaurant Arrayanes (Cuesta Marañas, 4 Albaicin Bajo) Closed Monday and Tuesday
VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU
Award-winning
and recommended over and over again, it is not nearly as expensive as one might
think based on its appearance and its prizes. Mustafá, the owner,
speaks as many languages as one can imagine and is always
chatting with and attentive to his customers. A wonderful place and, above all,
with really
spectacular food. They don't serve alcohol, but their homemade
lemonade with mint is so delicious that you won't miss either wine or
beer here.
It is my favourite Morrocan restaurant in Granada. Although it is included it in the international food section below I couldn't help adding it
here too because I could never recomend it enough and because, somehow, Moorish
places are such an essential part of Granada's history as well. Then,
after dinning, what better than a stroll through Las
Teterías (see number 16)
5 Café Futbol / La Esquinita de Javi (Plaza de Mariana Pineda) La Esquinita de Javi closes Sunday and Monday
Grenadians
love El Café
Futbol to
drink chocolate with churros and La
Esquinita de Javi to
eat fried fish, seafood and paella. The greatest virtue of Café
Fútbol is
the proximity to the flat, the variety
on the menu and their non stop kitchen
service, which is available all
day from 6:30 AM 'til midnight making it ideal for eating outside of hours when other restaurants
are closed. La
Esquinita de Javi
is a fantastic place both for tapas
and for eating a la carte.
8 La Freiduría de Tere (Plaza Pescadería, 22) Opens only for luch from 11:00 to 14:30 and it is closed Sunday and Monday and holidays.
This square owes its name to the fishmonger (pescadería) the Cunini family, originally from the coastal town of Motril, had here. In 2015 they moved the fishmonger and opened this small fry shop that became popular inmediately. Their fried fish cartridges are wonderful and the main attraction, but they have other delicious things, their homemade fish paella , for example. It's a takeaway place only, not a restaurant, although if you're lucky you might find one of its two small tables free, otherwise just find a bench in the square and enjoy! Next to the chip shop is the Cunini seafood restaurant, run by the same family and possibly the best in the city, although its prices are certainly not cheap.
9
El Botánico (Calle Málaga, 3)
VEGETARIAN
OPTIONS ON THE MENU
Excellent restaurant in front of the Botanical Garden with a modern and minimalist space with a "vintage" theme and "retro" style furniture. It serves excellent international food with beautifully presented oriental, Italian or Mexican dishes. My favorite one is the teriyaki tuna (slice of fresh tuna grilled in a Japanese sweet sauce marinade ) although they only have it in tuna season. Take the opportunity to visit the small Botanical Garden, the interior of tha Faculty of Law and the Plaza de la Universidad right there.
10 Bodegas Castañeda (Calle Almireceros, 1)
With more than
100 years of history, it is one of the places you should not miss on your visit
to Granada. It's always crowded, that's its only drawback, but it's
for a reason. If
you think that there is not a single space for you, talk to the staff, they are
super friendly and in less than 20 minutes they will have you placed in some
corner that you had not even seen. Their
endless menu of dishes occupies
the entire paper tablecloth . The
Tabla Fría, a mix of smoked fish, cold meats, cheese, nuts etc is fantastic (ask for half if you are two or three people because it
is huge),
the croquettes, the tortilla, the cod are also very good. On
the other hand, I do not reccomend the Tabla Caliente. In my opinion is the
worst thing they have. Too greasy and salty.
They have
a spectacular home-made vermouth called calicasas, which can easily knock you down.
Warning! There is another restaurant just behind this one with almost the same name (Antigua Bodega Castañeda or also Casa Castañeda)
This
problem with the names comes from an old family
dispute
and as they
are so similar and
both are next to each other many visitors get
confused and
that is a
shame because the other
one
is very expensive,
the service is terrible and
the
food
bad. To
avoid any confusion, pay attention to the exact name (Bodegas Castañeda) and the
street (Almireceros).
33 Kiosko Las Titas
(Paseo de la Bomba)
This charming art nouveau metal and glass
venue by the river is a classic of local Granada culture. Its interior is
wonderful, yet rarely does anyone notice it because the tables outside in the
garden are the real attraction here. Las Titas is a restaurant but also a tapas
bar and a café and a place to have a beer at any time. Las Titas can be whatever
you want, your place for a coffee in the morning, or a tea with cake in the
afternoon or a glass of wine in the evening. The only important thing is that
you find the ideal table for you, under a tree or umbrella if it's hot, in the
sun if it's cool, near the entrance if it's windy or far from it if you want
more tranquility. Leave the hustle and bustle of the city and the comings and
goings of cars and tourists and forget for a moment that you are just a
five-minute walk away from the city center.
TAPAS BARS
Oh! The tapas in Granada! They are like a magnet that attracts locals and
tourists alike. Yes, in Granada, as in no other place in Spain, the tradition of
giving a free little dish of food with each drink has been preserved. But going
out on a tapas tour has its tricks and, sometimes visitors get it wrong. So
let's bring some light to the subject. It is not necessary to go specifically to
a tapas bar to be served a free tapa. Most restaurants also offer tapas with
drinks in the same way that most tapas bars also offer dishes and meals. So what
exactly is the difference? Let's say, to simplify, that in Granada we call
restaurants those places where we go mainly to sit down and eat a plate,
although they also serve tapas. And we call tapas bars those establishments
where we mainly go to drink and snack, usually standing at the bar, although
many of these places also have tables and serve meals. It is also important to
know that there are two types of tapas bars: Those in which they serve you a
tapa that you do not choose (this is the traditional model and is also the case
in most restaurants) and those that give you the option of choosing the tapa. The
latter are very popular among young people and university students because they
allow them to choose the most filling ones. The bars that allow you to choose
the tapas have another peculiarity: they offer extra tapas at a very affordable
price. Also, do not mistake "tapa" for "ración" . A "racion" is a dish that is
enough for one person to eat, although most of the times they could even feed
two people because "raciones" in Granada are usually enormous. Keep this in mind
if you are going to ask "raciones".
Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
17 Bar Ávila (Calle Verónica de la Virgen, 16) & Bar Ávila Tapas II (Calle San Isidro, 11) You choose your free tapa here - Closed on Sundays
Warning: The first one of the two is actually under restoration. Go to the second one
Here you can choose your free tapa from a long list of very tasty things. An amazing place, good and incredibly popular among locals. Big portions. Don't miss their “Jamón Asado" (Roasted HamHam) which is their most popular tapa. It has only one drawback, the same one as in all good places in Granada: It is usually crowded. .
18 La Trastienda (Calle Cuchilleros, 11) Closed on Sundays
An old delicatessen whose back store (trastienda in Spanish
hence the name) local workers used to enter to eat. Custom became tradition and
the back room was remodeled creating an intimate and informal atmosphere. The
store has been preserved as it was, with its old scales and weights and the
counter from over 100 years ago. The cute interior with low poufs and sofas and
warm lighting is somewhere between a pub and your living room. The tapas are
always based on sausages, cold meats, pate or cheese of very good quality but
short in size. Don't expect to eat on tapas here, but if you want to get your
fill of chorizo, Iberian ham and other delicacies washed down with good wine in
an almost chill-out atmosphere, this is the place..
19 La Clausura (Calle Málaga, 13 in Plaza de los Lobos) Closed on Sundays
They serve rich
and generous tapas.
20 MinotauroTapas (Calle
Imprenta, 6)
This is the
typical tapas bar that anyone would have liked to have near their
high school or
college when they were students. A nice and informal place where
you can fill your stomach with simple but tasty tapas for very little money. Let's
make it clear, quantity prevails here. The quality is obviously
nothing to write home about and they don't go around with any frills when
presenting the tapas, but it is the ideal place to satisfy your hunger without
spending much: A bagel with loin, lettuce and sauce with fries with a beer for some 2
euros.
21 La Riviera ( Calle Cetti Meriem, 7) You choose your free tapa here
This bustling,
crowded kind of pub and tapas bar hybrid is popular
with students because it's cheap and the tapas are big and tasty.
Their "Carne en salsa" (meat in
its sauce) is great. You
can choose your tapa here.
Only make it sure you ask for it or otherwise if you
don't they will serve you whatever comes first.
It's
really worth it -if you can get in, of course-
22 Om Kalsum (Calle Jardines, 17) You choose your free tapa here - Closed on Sundays
VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU
This is an
extremely popular Moroccan tapas bar. It is run by people from
Casablanca and has a young and relaxed atmosphere. It is usually
crowded so if you want to find a place it is better to arrive
either early or
very late. Here
you
can choose your free tapa
with every drink you buy and you can
also buy as many extra tapas
as you want. They are really cheap and very tasty. They
have couscous, hummus, falafel, shawarma, tajin, and much more. This
bar is on the same street and very close to Bodega
de Antonio I, which
is a tipical Spanish restaurant also included on this guide (see
number 3).
23 Navas Street - Los Diamantes (Navas 28 )
Calle Navas is the quintessential tapas street, from the beginning to the end of it, left and right, one after the other, you will see nothing but tapas bars and restaurants. It is quite touristy, yet it has its little gems and places that the locals continue to frequent without fearing the crowds. One of them stands out: Los Diamantes. It's small and noisy with that hard-to-explain charm that old places have. Here there is no choice but to stand and fight for a spot at the bar because there is not even room for a stool, let alone a table.
23
Los
Diamantes 2 ( Rosario
12),
Los Diamantes II (Plaza de los Campos, 1) &
Los Diamantes
Plaza Nueva ( Plaza
Nueva 13)
The popularity of their small place on Calle Navas led its owners to open a
second bar not far from it, on Calle del Rosario 12, which was later extended up
to Plaza de los
Campos and became the Diamantes II, exactly as good as the original, but bigger,
more comfortable and modern and with lovely tables to eat outside in the square.
It is my favourite because of the beautiful location, the tables to eat outside
in the square and because it is the closest to my place. There is another one in
Plaza Nueva 13 and they have recently open aother one in Bib Rambla Square. The
quality and the prices are the same.
24 Campo del
Principe
(Plaza Campo del Principe)
This is
not a bar but a square. The largest in Granada. It
is included here because on one
of its sides there
is an endless line of good tapas
bars that
are very popular with locals, especially
at the weekends. None stands out in particular. In terms
of price and quality they are quite similar so choose the one that appeals to
you the most. The
real reason for recommending this location is the possibility of being away from
tourism and surrounded by people from Granada for once. Children will be playing in the park,
lovers cuddling on the benches, young people skateboarding or playing soccer. Just
sit down and watch. It
is a much-loved place and it is worth touring the square to see its many
interesting buildings and architectural styles. Especially pretty
is the church
of San Cecilio,
from which, and if you like walking, you can go all the way up to beautiful Carmen
de los Martires and from there to the Alhambra
25 El Conde (Virgen
del Rosario 12) Next
to Los Diamantes (23
on this list) and La Tana (28
on this list)
Excellent food
and service. Super friendly staff. Good innovative
tapas and a wide selection of wines from different regions of Spain, all at a
reasonable price. Don't expect the usual tapas or meals, they
definitely like to experiment with new recipes and new ways of combining
traditional Spanish ingredients. Try their scrambled eggs with ham
and potatoes. You
cannot choose your tapa here but their
most popular
one (Hamburger with quail
egg)
will invariably be served with your first drink. If you
are a vegetarian, it is better to
tell them so
when ordering the drink before the tapa
is served.
TAPAS BARS (FOR WINE LOVERS)
If beer is your
thing, then Granada is yours, but if you worship the god Bacchus you may end up
getting tired of so much cheap Rioja and average Ribera. The three
places that I recommend here below are three true gems because of their good tapas,
their nice location, their decoration and, of course, for their
wide selection of wines. None of the three is exactly cheap, but
they win hands down in terms of value for money.
Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
27
Ajoblanco (Palacios,
17)
A place like in the old days. A wine house with soul. A real gem. No soft drinks, no beer on tap, no television. Time stands still in this wine bar in our neighbourhood.
In front of the church of Santo Domingo.
So close! And so good!
28 La Tana (Calle Rosario,
11
next to Placeta
del Agua)
This little
tavern is no secret to locals. It is usually crowded. Again!
Their
tapas are exceptional and so is the quality of their wines. Their
toast with blood sausage mousse and pine nuts is the customer's
most desired trophy. But
since you cannot choose your tapa here, they usually
make you wait for it and they don't serve it until you've had
two or three glasses of wine. You can try and put on
a pity face and kindly ask them to serve you the blood
sausage you so much want to try as a starter
before you get drunk. It
has worked for me sometimes, but not always. If
it's
too crowded to push a pin in,
don't despair, most of the bars in this central yet somewhat hidden area
are excellent. Some
of them are also in this guide.
Try El
Conde (number
25 on this list) or
Los Diamantes (number
23 on this list) or
anyone of the other places in this charming little corner
of the centre.
29 “La Brujidera”
Casa de Vinos (Wine House) ( Monjas
del Carmen Street, 2)
A classic among
classics, a lovely place with old-world charm and probably
the widest selection of wines you can find in Granada. It's
name says it all. No less than
13 reds and 13 whites to order by the glass and many,
many more if
you order by the bottle. The tapas, both the ones you get free with
your drink and the ones you pay for, are excellent.
VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN
Places
listed here are vegan or vegetarian only. There are many good restaurants in
Granada that, not being exclusively vegan or vegetarian do have vegan or
vegetarian options on their menus. You can easily find those places checking for
the green label "vegetarian
options on the menu" in the other sections in this guide
Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
6 Hicuri (Plaza
de los Girones, 4) Closed
on Sundays
100%
VEGAN
Hicuri's daily
menu (for lunch only) includes two courses, dessert and a drink.
Its value for money is unbeatable. The atmosphere is bright
and welcoming
and the service is very friendly.
.
7 El
Piano (Santiago,
2)
100%
VEGAN
& GLUTEN FREE
Very close to the
Hicuri, the Piano is more humble and homely and much less elegant, but its
food is delicious and always prepared with fresh and
good quality products. A
recommendation: try
the meatballs in tomato sauce! They
are like the ones our grandmothers used to make, but without meat! In
addition to being 100% vegan, all their dishes are gluten-free.
11 Paprika Restaurant (Cuesta de Abarqueros, 3)
VEGAN
This restaurant comes to prove that vegetarian food doesn't have to be boring. Not at all. It is not just a restaurant but also a tapas bar. Their tapas are delicious and... vegan of course!
26 Papaupa (Calle
Molinos 16)
VEGAN,
VEGETARIAN
AND GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS
A charming place
with good service and a very personal, familiar and welcoming retro
decoration. Homemade fusion food. They
call it retrofusion. Ceviches,
woks, Colombian arepas, stews and much more.
34
Raices
(Calle
Pablo Picasso, 30)
VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN
Opened in 1982, it
was the first vegetarian restaurant in Granada. Its desserts are delicious, its
menu is extensive, the service is super friendly and its atmosphere is calm and
cozy. It has a menu of the day for €10.80 (except
on Sundays and holidays) which
changes daily and is updated on its website.
You
can check
INTERNATIONAL FOOD
When someone asks
me where they can eat that is not full of tourists, I answer, half jokingly half
seriously, that in a Chinese, an Italian or a Mexican place. The truth is
that "Granadinos" are already a bit bored with tapas and flamenco, so to find
locals and mingle with them, there is nothing better than eating in
international restaurants and going to rock concerts. Jokes aside,
these magnificent restaurants are a gem if you want to try something
different from tapas while in Spain if only for one day.
Remember: Clicking on the
name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
30 Restaurante La Cantina Mejicana del Sur (Cuesta del Realejo 1)
My apologies to
the Mexicans for the "j" but that's what the place is called and how they write
it. Without
a doubt the best Mexican restaurant in Granada. The food is delicious, the
decor is bright and joyful, and their highly sophisticated margaritas… well, they are simply indescribable. Don't
drink anything else, drink them before eating, while eating and after eating,
and then if the whole world just turns around
you don't worry, luckily the way back home is all downhill.
If you ask anyone
in Granada which is the best Italian restaurant in town, they will all give
you the same answer: “Il Gondoliere”. The big problem
with everyone
agreeing on this is that getting a table
her can be sometimes impossible, and this
despite the fact that the restaurant is huge. It is advisable to
call and make a reservation, especially on weekends, holidays and the eve of
holidays.
Today Japanese
food has become fashionable everywhere, but the Kirin was
already in Granada long
before this trend. It was the first one and
itcontinues to be the best
Japanese restaurant in Granada. They go far beyond sushi and sashimi and have
some really amazing dishes on the menu. Their
set tasting menus are a
very good way to try many different things with an unbeatable
value for money.
4Morrocan Restaurant Arrayanes (Cuesta Marañas, 4 Albaicin Bajo) Closed Monday and Tuesday
VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU
Award-winning and recommended over and over again, it is not nearly as expensive as one might think based on its appearance and its prizes. Mustafá, the owner, speaks as many languages as one can imagine and is always chatting with and attentive to his customers. A wonderful place and, above all, with really spectacular food. They don't serve alcohol, but their homemade lemonade with mint is so delicious that you won't miss either wine or beer here. It is my favourite Morrocan restaurant in Granada. Although it is included it in the international food section below I couldn't help adding it here too because I could never recomend it enough and because, somehow, Moorish places are such an essential part of Granada's history as well. Then, after dinning, what better than a stroll through Las Teterías (see number 16)
COFFEE, TEA, CAKES & ICE CREAM
The number in front of the name matches the number on my map which you can find at the bottom of this page in case you want to check it.
Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
12 Cafeteria Alhambra (Plaza de Bib-Rambla, 27)
The best hot chocolate with churros in town. The queues in winter prove it! Before asking for too many churros be aware that what they call churros here in Granada are called porras (bigger and thicker) in other parts of Spain (Madrid for instance) where churros are much thiner and lighter. Besides, portions in Granada are quite large.
13 Pastelería Cafe
López Mezquita (39
Reyes Católicos Street)
Cafeteria, pastry
shop, home-cooked takeaway and gourmet shop all in one. My favorite
cake is the “Torta Mohina”. It
is exclusive to this
bakery and
to make it even more complicated they do not make it every day.
14 Piononos de Casa Isla (Acera del Darro Street, 62 in front of El Corte Inglés)
Traditional piononos
are so popular
in Granada
there is no pastry shop
that does not sell them. The
original
ones
are those from Casa Isla and
there is a branch of this chain practically on every street in Granada, so you
will not have any problem finding them. The one that I indicate
here is only the closest. If
you want them to take as
a gift, it
is better to buy them frozen, so when you arrive home they will be ready to eat. In La Isla they
also put them in
a beautiful gift box with the history of this speciality.
15 Fior Di Gelato (Calle Acera del Casino, 3) Ice cream only in summer / Chocolate fritters in winter
This is very
personal but in my opinion they
have the best ice cream in Granada. Creamy,
without a hint of frost. Simply
delicious. They only have
ice cream from March/april to
October/November
-more or less- depending
on the weather. When
the cold arrives, it
is converted and instead of ice cream they make the
typical donuts
with hot
chocolate that
are also finger-licking
good. So
in winter or summer, if you like sweets, here you have one more temptation. It
has no tables, no bar, you can only buy to take away and eat out.
16 “Las Teterías” (Calle Calderería Nueva and Calderería Vieja)
These two streets
of the lower Albaicín frame a charming
Moroccan neighborhood full of shops
and tearooms where you can buy
handicrafts and clothes from the Maghreb, try
exotic teas and smoke hookah. It
feels like being on a trip to Morocco but without leaving Granada. Beautiful and
colorful. But be careful with the prices, especially in the
tearooms, because they are highly inflated by tourism. The crafts,
however, continue to be very affordable although obviously not as much as in
Morocco itself. If you are around here and you are hungry, it is a
good opportunity to visit the Arrayanes
Restaurant (Number 4 on this list)
TERRACES WITH A VIEW
What better after a long day, in the evening or on summer nights, than to enjoy a drink with a view of the mountains, the city, the Alhambra or the Albaicín?
Monasterio Chill Out (Hotel Los Jerónimos)
Huerto
del Loro Rooftop
B-Heaven
GOING OUT FOR A DRINK
These are some places that are popular and which I like to go to when it comes to having a drink at night. Again, this is obviously a very personal thing, but I can assure you that it's not just me who likes these sites. Go to any of them and you will see. On my map these places are marked in white numbers on a gray square background.
Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
N1 Ganivet
Street
(Calle Ganivet)
Ganivet Street
has always been one of the most aristocratic (and boring) streets in the city. The
first remains the same but the second has changed a lot lately. Gourmet
bars, glamorous pubs and some clubs of those which won't let you in depending on
your look or clothes have all proliferated. Anyway, there are some
nice places, though pricy, and it is so close to
the flat that it is worth stopping to have a beer on a terrace just to see another
side of Granada society.
Lively and crowdy at the weekends. Quieter on work days.
When it comes to
cocktails this is my little castle. A hidden place in a narrow street in the
center. Full of bustle, music of a thousand different styles and glasses on fire
(literally). Impossible and exotic combinations of fruit juices and spirits at
an unbeatable price. The owner lives upstairs and personally runs the business
as if it was his baby. An umpretrensious place for you to just have a good time.
N3 Bohemia
Jazz Café (Plaza
de los Lobos, 11 )
The most
beautiful café in Granada. A journey through time through its
collection of antique objects and its vintage aesthetic. A pianist
dusts off the piano keys on Fridays and Saturdays. The
rest of the days good jazz sounds through the speakers. It's hard to
find a table but it's worth a try. They have great shakes and
cocktails and their hot chocolate with cognac or whiskey is delicious. Of
course there are all kinds of coffees and teas as well.
N4 Hannigan and
Sons (Cetti Meriem,
1)
The Hannigan's is not
just another pub. It's "The Pub". It has been at the
center of Granada nightlife for decades and continues to be a benchmark. Its
music from the 80s and 90s, its diverse clientele, its mix of locals and
foreigners, its good vibes and its good beer are unrivaled. Packed to
the brim
until 3 in the morning. Also
a great place to watch footbal and rugby matches too.
N5 Premier Room (Plaza de Mariana PIneda, 1)
The Sala Premier
opened in Granada in 2021 with an eclectic offer a wide variety of people
fell in love with. It has two
floors full of contrasts, inspired by the cinema, with a mixture of extravagance
and elegance. You can feel you are in the Middle Earth chatting with a hobbit; traveling on the famous
Orient Express or having a beer in Hannibal Lecter's cell. Leave
it up to your imagination. Live music, several weekly jazz and blues
nights, interactive games and theme parties etc. If you are curious it is just
two blocks from here.
From Calle Recogidas to Plaza Einstein. This is the street par excellence of
Granada's nightlife and its sixty thousand students. An
endless trail of pubs, cocktail bars, clubs and discos of all kinds of styles
and for all tastes and pockets. And many, many kebab, sawarma and pizza places,
most of them open until dawn because, as we all know, dancing and drinking
always makes you very hungry.
N7 Elvira Street
(Calle Elvira)
Although it is no longer what it used to be, Elvira Street, parallel to the Gran Vía de Colón, is still a benchmark for Granada's bohemian nightlife. It starts in the well lit super touristy and elegant Plaza Nueva and becomes darker and more indie as we move away from it. There are plenty of kebabs, oriental and Moroccan restaurants and lots of little clubs to have a drink.
FLAMENCO IN
GRANADA
Remember: Clicking on the
name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.
F1 Gardens of Zoraya (Panaderos, 32) in the Albaicín, not far from San Nicolás
Pure, elegant and powerful flamenco in an old Moorish house with a garden in the Albaicín, very close to the San Nicolás viewpoint.
Artists on stage: Usually four (male and female dancers. guitar and singer) with some guest artists sometimes.
Deep,
more intense and more
professional than the most popular
flamenco shows in
the Sacromonte
but it
might be
harder to understand to those no very aquainted to flamenco, while the
most knowledgeable will undoubtedly appreciate the finesse of the presentation.
Approximate
prices:
Show:
25 Euros
(Drinks not included)
Show+Gourmet Selection Dinner:
54
to 64 Euros
(Drinks not included)
On certain dates
(Valentine's Day, Easter, Granada Fair, Christmas, etc.) they
might have a special menu and flamenco program and the price can be higher.
Booking:
It is not necessary to book if you are only going to see the show, but for dinner it is advisable to call beforehand or book online. .
Phone for reservations:
(+34) 958
206 266
https://flamenco.jardinesdezoraya.com/
To get there:
The place is marked as F1 on my map
Walking (It takes about 30 minutes) or on bus C31 which runs from Plaza Nueva every 7 minutes.
Note: On weekdays there is no bus after 11:00 pm to return. You can return by taxi (about 10 euros) or on foot (about half an hour down-hill)
F2 La Venta El Gallo (Barranco de Los Negros, 5) in the Gypsy neighbourhood of Sacromonte
The flamenco that is seen in the Sacromonte is different from anything that can be seen in other "tablaos", be it in Granada, Seville or Madrid. The gypsies call it "zambra" which is a word of Arabic origin that means "party". And indeed, what viewers pay to see is a kind of representation of a gypsy party. The truth is that unless you know someone gypsy and are lucky enough to be invited to a baptism, a wedding or a birthday, this is the closest you will ever get to seeing what a gypsy celebration is like. La Venta El Gallo is my favorite cave, due to the incomparable beauty of the place and the joy it transmits from the stage. It is a happier and less technical show than the one offered by Jardines de Zoraya, perhaps of less quality, but more colourful, more universal and easier for all audiences to enjoy.
Artists on stage: It varies but the number is usually large with eight or more artists together on stage (it has to, otherwise the party atmosphere would be difficult to get)
Here you also have the option of dinner+show or only show. The food is very good. In summer there is the possibility of dining on the small terrace that they have with wonderful views of the Alhambra. Booking is essential if you are going to have dinner, but not if you just want to see the show. To dine on the terrace, reservations must be made well in advance.
Aproximate prices:
Show
22 Euros (A drink included)
Show + dinner
52 Euros (Drinks Included)
Booking:
It is not necessary to book if you are only going to see the show, but for dinner it is advisable to call beforehand or book online.
Phone for reservations:
(+34) 640 147 985 / (+34) 858 950 315
To get there:
The place is marked as F1 on my
map
Walking
(It takes about 45 minutes up-hill) or on bus C34 which
runs from Plaza Nueva every 20 minutes.
Note: On weekdays there is no bus after 11:00 pm to return. You can return by taxi (about 10 euros) or on foot (about half an hour down hill)
PRACTICAL
INFO
Remember: Clicking on the
name of the service will take you to the location on Google Maps.
The Closest laundry (less than a five-minute walk) is Speed Queen (Cuesta del Progreso 2) Self Service. Open all days from 08:00 to 22:00
Tickets can be bought in advance online from the Alhambra official website, by phone (+34 858 953 616 ) and from the automatic machines located uphill in the Alhambra Pavilion Access and also in the Corral del Carbon in the centre of Granada.
Tickets for the same day can only be bought at the Ticket Office in the Alhambra.
If you have a late flight, bus or train out of Granada and need a place to leave your luggage after checking-out We Locker (Calle Campo Verde, 2) is very close and convenient. Anyway, talk to me before, because in most cases it might be possible for you to leave your stuff here. I'll try and do my best but I can't promise anything as it will all depend on my work, appointments etc.
I know, no longer a service as necessary as it used to be, yet, just in case, the one at Puerta Real is the main one and the nearest
Supermarkets:
Carrefour Express (Acera del Darro, 74) Opens all days from 09:00 to 21:00.
Mercadona (Acera del Darro, 98) is just a bit further down the same street. They have a greater variety of products and in many cases of a better quality at a similar price. Closes on Sundays and holidays.
There is one in Plaza Mariana Pineda (very close) but sometimes there are no taxis there waiting and it can take some time before one arrives. Just a hundred meter further, in Plaza Fuente de las Batallas is the main taxi stop in the centre where you will not have any problem getting one.
Just like the Post Office, a service no longer as used as it was in the past. Yet, If what you want is to put together a bunch of tourist brochures there is no place like this: Oficina Municipal de Turismo de Granada
LOCAL BUSES
Remember: Clicking on the
name of the bus will take you to the location of the bus stop on Google maps.
Take the BUS AEROPUERTO at Acera del Darro, 1 (Check the schedule in advance online https://www.alsa.es/aeropuertos/granada-jaen)
Take bus number 33 or number 21 from Acera del Darro, 1
Bus to the Railway Station (RENFE)
Take bus number 4 at Acera del Casino, 5 (Puerta Real) (Get off at Avenida Constitución, 38 and then walk down Avenida Andaluces)
You can easily walk from here to the Alhambra. It is a nice 20-minute walk. If you need to get a bus, take bus C30 or bus C32 from Plaza Isabel La Católica, 4
Bus to the Albaicín, San Nicolas and Jardines de Zoraya
It is just a 23-minute walk to Mirador San Nicolas from here. If you want to get a bus, take C31 from Plaza Nueva
It takes about 30 minutes on foot to get to the Sacromonte neighbourhood. If you want to get there by bus, take C34 from Plaza Nueva
Remember: Clicking on the
name of the destination will take you to the location on Google maps.
Without any doubt, the most famous viewpoint in Granada. The best time of the day (and the most crowded with people) is at sunset and after it as it gets dark. You will find flamenco musicians there together with street vendors, jogglers, acrobats, joint smokers, tourists from all over the world and a long etc. in an eclectic, festive and unprejudiced atmosphere. If you arrive before sunset and you are looking for something more quiet, you can visit the gardens of the mosque to the left of the church (facing the Alhambra) from where you have the same view but in a more relaxed atmosphere.
MIRADOR TORRE DE LA IGLESIA DE SAN MIGUEL BAJO
Walking from
Cuesta del Chapiz to Abadia del Sacromonte on Camino del Sacromonte, you will
enjoy amazing views of the Alhambra, the mountains and the gypsy neighbourhood
GRANADA ON FOOT
Three walking
tours for you to discover and enjoy the city best
A walk through the city centre:
From the Plaza de Mariana Pineda we go to the
Plaza del Campillo and from there to the
Fuente de las Batallas and the
Plaza de la Acera del Casino to
Puerta Real. We are in the Km ‘0’ of the city, in the centre of Granada.
From here we enter
Mesones Street, the most commercial street of the city, and we arrive at the beautiful
Plaza de Trinidad, with its immense trees, along Trinidad street we arrive at the
Botanical Garden of the University of Granada and the
Plaza de la Universidad with the
Faculty of Law, which is worth entering to admire its architecture, patios and fountains.
Along Calle
San Jerónimo we reach the
Plaza Romanilla with its famous
Monumento al Aguador
MORE TOURS COMING SOON!
A walk through
The Albaicín is the oldest quarter of Granada and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Discovering its narrow streets and small squares on foot, enjoying its
viewpoints and getting lost in its alleys will be one of the most memorable
experiences you will take with you from Granada.
We start this tour
Plaza Nueva, la más concurrida y
turística de la ciudad. The walk along the river Darro from the Church of Santa
Ana at the end of the square to the
Paseo de los Tristes at the foot
of the Alhambra is the most beautiful in Granada (during this
section of
the
walk you can visit
El Bañuelo, El Maristán, La Casa de Zafra and La Casa
Morisca de Horno de Oro).
From the Paseo de los Tristes we go up the Cuesta del Chapiz where you can visit the beautiful Casa del Chapiz and reach the junction with the Camino del Sacromonte which takes us into the most picturesque and unique quarter of Granada, the gypsy and flamenco quarter par excellence with its intricate architecture of cave houses. Arriving at the flamenco cave of María la Canastera we will see a staircase that leads to another flamenco cave called La Venta el Gallo. This staircase leads to a picturesque path called Verea de Enmedio which winds through the neighbourhood between cave houses. Always accompanied by spectacular views we pass by the Mirador Mario Maya, the Fuente de la Amapola and the Mirador de En Medio until we reach the Cuesta de los Chinos and the Placeta Albaida which brings us back to the steep Cuesta del Chapiz.
We climb up to Plaza del Salvador where we can visit the only church in Granada that still has a Mussouman cloister. From here we start our tour of the upper Albaicín passing through Plaza Aliatar, Calle Pagés, Plaza de Fátima y Calle del Agua to finally arrive at the picturesque Plaza Larga. Along the walk pay attention to the signs of the shops and businesses, all made of tiles. The ‘Coca Cola’ blue and white ceramic tiles in arabesque style are unique in the world and were designed exclusively for the Albaicín by this multinational company in the 1970s to blend in with the Nasrid style of the neighbourhood. They deserve a photo.
From Plaza Larga and passing the historic Arco de las
Pesas we take the Callejón de San Cecilio
which leads us to the church of
San Nicolás
and its famous Plaza Mirador with the most famous and
photographed view of the Alhambra. The Granada Mosque, right next to the church,
has gardens that offer the same view with a little less hustle and bustle.
We take the Camino Nuevo de San Nicolas and enter the MIrador de Santa Isabel con bonitas vistas panorámicas. with beautiful panoramic views. Very close to the square in the small Callejón del Ladrón de Agua is the Palacio de Dar al-Horra a jewel of Nasrid architecture which is well worth a visit. From the palace via Callejón del Gallo we reach the picturesque Plaza de San Miguel Bajo. If the church is open, which is rare, the tower offers the best view imaginable, a spectacular 360º panoramic view of the whole of Granada including one of the most beautiful views of the Alhambra. Don't hesitate, go up. Passing the church we find the beautiful convent of Santa Isabel la Real, a little known and surprising jewel.
From here we start the descent along Calle Tiña, then Calle Quijada passing the Alminar de Almorabitum before reaching Placeta de San José
from where we get to Cuesta de San Gregorio that will leads us to Plaza de San Gregorio and so we finally arrive at Las Teterías, an area of the lower part of the Albaicín framed between the Calderería Nueva and Calderería Vieja which with its Moorish architecture, craft shops, tea rooms and Arab pastry shops immediately transports us to a Moroccan medina.Going down the Calderería Nueva we reach the Calle Elvira, the old main street of the city and from there we return to the Plaza Nueva where we start our tour.
Walk through the Realejo:
This is my neighbourhood. For many people from Granada, it is the best and most attractive place to live in the city.
We start at Plaza de Mariana Pineda and go up Plaza de los Campos where we can visit the interesting Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo, from here we continue to Plaza de Santo Domingo with the impressive painted façade of its church.
The small Plaza del Realejo gives access to a long flight of steps which we climb and at the end of which is the Plegadero Alto which leads to Plaza de San Cecilio. From here we enter the inmense Campo del Príncipe. Granada's largest square has plenty of terraces where you can eat and drink in a much less touristy atmosphere than in other parts of the centre.
If you like graffiti, on the corner of Molinos and Cuesta Monteros you will find one of the most famous graffiti by El Niño de las Pinturas Granada's most famous graffiti artist. And just in front of it is the Official Merchandasing Shop of this artist.El Realejo is full of his works, if you are interested you can search for routes and locations of his works on the Internet.
We return along Calle Molinos to the Plaza del Realejo and along Santa Escolástica we arrive at the cute Plaza Padre Suarez and just opposite
the very interesting Palacio Museo de La Casa De Los Tiros. We continue along Pavaneras and before arriving at Plaza Isabel la Católica we turn left into San Matías and go down this street which leads to the Plaza de Mariana Pineda where we start our tour but, before reaching the square we will turn right into Calle Navas, the most traditional wine and tapas street of Granada, full of bars and restaurants.Down Escudo del Carmen we get to Ángel Ganivet, a street full of elegant pubs and restaurants that is bustling at night, especially on summer nights and every weekend. And now, from here, we return to Plaza Mariana Pineda.
MUCH
MORE TO BE SEEN
The Alhambra is rightly Granada's main tourist
attraction, but its fame and grandeur often overshadows the huge variety of
historical monuments and architectural gems that the city hides. If you're a
little curious, and have the time and inclination, you'll
be surprised to discover how much this town has to offer.
Andalusian Monuments:
Small jewels of
the legacy of Nazari civil architecture in the city
Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo
Alcaiceria
Corral del Carbón
Bañuelo
Casa de Zafra
Casa Horno de Oro
Casa del Chapiz
Palacio de Dar al-Horra
Cármenes:
The word cármen,
which is used in Granada to refer to a large house with a garden, comes from the Arabic ‘Karm’ which means ‘cultivated field’. So now you know, if you decide to
move to Granada and buy a house with a patio in the Albaicín you will not be buying a villa but a
cármen.
Cármen de los Martires
Cármen Fundación Rodriguez Acosta
Cármen de la Victoria
Cármen de los Geranios
Iglesias:
There are 267 churches in Granada
but, unless you want to get into the Guinness Book of Records,
you won't probably visit them all. These are
in my opinion the most beautiful and interesting ones.
Monasterios:
Monasterio de San Jerónimo
Monasterio de La Cartuja
La Universidad:
Linked to the city since the Nasrid period, Granada cannot be conceived without it. These three beautiful buildings (two of them of truly imposing architecture) show us the unbreakable bond that unites Granada with its university.
Casa Huerta de San Vicente (Parque García Lorca)
Centro Federico Garcia Lorca
Excursiones:
Do you like fresh air and walking in nature? You don't need to go far. Granada is at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, surrounded by ravines and rivers within easy reach. Grab your backpack, a bottle of water and some snacks and start your hike from home.
Granada
to Pinos Genil (relaxing)
Acequia Real de la Alhambra
(enriching)
To get and save the map in high resolution press a few seconds on the image and then click on "download image" from the dropdown menu.
On this map you can see the location of all the places listed here at a glance, which can help you better decide where to go depending on where you are. Look for the blue and gray shaded numbers. The map also includes a list of 42 places of interest such as churches, museums, buildings, viewpoints, etc. These places are also numbered and correspond to the small black numbers on the map.
The map also offers practical information on some of the most frequently needed services such as laundry, post office, taxi stop, supermarkets, etc. as well as the location of the stops of those buses that may be most useful to you during your visit, especially those that connect with the airport, the bus station and the train station.
Text and design by Víctor Ovies Arenas. All unauthorized copying, reproduction and/or distribution is prohibited.
